Many animals are surrendered to shelters every year due to unresolved behavior issues. With a little effort and commitment on the part of the pet owner, most unwanted behaviors can be corrected or prevented by using humane and proven methods. 

The Animal Shelter of Wood River Valley explores common behavior issues, and endeavors to provide adopters with the behavior support they need. We address the possible causes, as well as offer alternative solutions for correction.  

Our commitment to promoting quality relationships with our pets is significant… If you have a specific behavior or training question, we would like to help! Please call or email us with detailed information.

The Animal Shelter of Wood River Valley supports humane and positive reinforcement training techniques. Through sharing this invaluable information, we hope to promote lasting and rewarding relationships for people and animals alike.

BEHAVIOR ISSUE: 
Canine Destructive Chewing – Adolescent / Adult Dog 

Chewing is a very natural activity for most canines. The problem is not THAT your dog chews, but WHAT your dog chews. Destructive chewing in an adolescent/adult dog may be the result of anxiety, boredom, a dental problem, or a deficiency in diet. In any case, chewing problems are easier to PREVENT than to CORRECT. 

Possible Causes:

Finding the cause of destructive chewing in the adolescent/adult dog could offer a quick solution to your problem. The risk associated with this approach is that if your assessment of the cause is not accurate, an instance of destructive chewing may occur again. However, a combination of responding to the suspected cause along with behavior modification techniques will produce higher odds for quick success.

• Abandonment - A dog's pack, (or family) is the most important thing in his world. Your leaving may cause stress and anxiety and unfortunately, chewing is a natural vent for canine anxiety. Time can heal all wounds – especially for some shelter dogs. Once your dog builds the confidence that he is part of your family and not subject to abandonment, his fears, and consequently, his need to chew inappropriately may be alleviated.
• Diet & Nutrition – Some dogs chew inappropriately because there is something missing from their diet. Check with your veterinarian or vet nutritionist to see if your dog is getting everything he needs by way of diet. It may be that a change in his food will eliminate his need to chew destructively.
• Dental Problem - Sometimes dogs will chew because it feels good on sore teeth. Have your vet do a dental exam to ensure that his teeth are in good condition.
• Exercise – Regular exercise is an excellent vent for the destructive chewer. Physical activity often reduces anxiety and boredom and may replace the need for inappropriate chewing.
• Training & Stimulation – Being engaged in conventional training classes or informal at-home training sessions can provide for metal stimulation which is another outlet to replace destructive chewing activities.
• Maturity - Most adult dogs grow out of chewing at full maturity, thus eliminating the entire issue of destructive chewing.

Recommendations:

Destructive chewing issues are most successfully corrected using a combination of techniques. They are straightforward but require that all family members are consistent in modifying their own behavior patterns. The general approach needs to be positive and supportive and the desire to make it work must be the entire family's priority. It is similar to dealing with a child that has a learning disability. You must help your pet to find the best learning method specifically for him in order to achieve the desired result. Remember that chewing is a completely natural canine activity in wild as well as domesticated dogs. They do not perceive it as bad or unacceptable behavior.  

• Correct Chewing - One of the best techniques used to teach a dog to chew on appropriate items (and not on inappropriate ones) is to reward him whenever you see him chewing on acceptable items. Make a big happy fuss whenever he comes in contact with one of his acceptable chew toys.
• Catch in the Act - Dogs live in the moment and our responses are associated with what is happening at that moment. Unfortunately, if you reprimand your dog for destructive chewing that was performed hours previously, you probably are having no effect whatsoever to eliminate or control this behavior. In fact, you may be exacerbating the situation by increasing stress and anxiety. His interpretation is that your behavior is unpredictable and scary and in many cases creates trust and fear issues that can have repercussions of their own.
• If you can "set your dog up" to catch him in the act, it could prove to be the best form of communicating your wishes. If your dog traditionally chews when no one is present, stage a scenario where everyone pretends to leave the house; Secretly observe your dog and at the MOMENT he begins chewing on an inappropriate object, correct him with a firm commanding voice, "NO CHEW", and immediately provide him with an appropriate chew toy. If he takes the offered chew toy, praise him and tell him GOOD CHEW. The more times that this exercise can be performed, the more the new behavior will become ingrained. It is also helpful to consistently put all of your dogs toys in the same place. In this manner, the dog will learn that those items are always a good choice.
• Kong Toy - The Kong toy is a hive shaped hard rubber chew toy that is a very effective training tool. If you find the right combination of enticing treats, this can keep your dog occupied for hours AND more importantly, can provide your dog with an outlet for his natural chewing requirements. Try coating the opening and inside of the Kong toy with peanut butter and then insert a large piece of dog biscuit inside so that it is very difficult to remove. Ensure that it won't just fall out by dropping it once or twice. It is very stimulating for many dogs to work on getting the treat out which is a positive step in eliminating many behavior problems.
• Kennel/Crate Training - Crate training is neither cruel nor unfair treatment. On the contrary, punishing a dog when you return home or getting rid of a dog due to destructive behavior is far more inhumane than confinement. Remember that dogs are den creatures by nature, and given the proper introduction to a crate, they will associate it as a good place for safety and rest. Without the proper introduction to crate training, a dog (especially an adolescent/adult dog) may experience extreme anxiety and may even injure himself. Crates are usually intended to be transitional training tools for most dogs (for learning house breaking, etc,), although many are happy to keep their crates for life.
  • The first rule of crate training is that it can NEVER be used as a punishment. All associations with the crate must be positive.
  • The crate should be large enough for the dog to stand up, turn around and lie down comfortably and should contain some type of padding for added comfort.
  • Be certain that your dog has had the opportunity to play, eat, and eliminate before crating.
  • An ideal location for the crate is a room where the family typically spends a lot of time.
  • Initially, leave the door open and throw a few treats inside, allowing the dog to freely walk in and out; Begin to associate the crate with all good things - treats, food, new toys, etc.; When you are home, feed him inside his crate with the door open. (Later, you will NOT leave food inside during times of confinement).
  • Actual confinement inside of the crate should be gradual. Throw treats inside and close the door behind him for a few moments - praise him while inside and then open the door allowing him to exit; Several times a day, repeat this activity and while doing so, state the command "kennel" or "crate". This will help your dog associate the command "kennel" with going into his kennel.
  • Once you have accomplished the previous step, begin to close the door and leave the room for a few minutes and return on a random basis. DO NOT return if he begins whining or barking - try to only return during a period of silence. Once you begin actual confinement, this will also hold true for releasing him from the kennel. Wait for a period of calm and silence before you open the door and let him out. On the same note, be sure to act neutral when letting your dog out of his kennel. This will diffuse his excitement level after a time of confinement.
  • Gradually increase the time the dog spends in the crate while you are at home. The dog should not associate being crated with your departures. Obviously, you leaving may be a cause for anxiety which signals the destructive chewing behavior.
  • Since you are not using the crate as a house breaking training tool, you may leave a small amount of water for him and a chew toy to prevent boredom and promote stimulation. You may want to try the Kong toy with peanut butter as a very special "in-crate" treat. Whatever his favorite treat is, should become a new association with going in the crate.

The most important thing that you can do for your pet, is consider him a family member and treat him as such. Your attitude and willingness to help him understand what is expected of him will go a very long way. With commitment and some effort on your part, most pets will overcome their issues with chewing.  

Please feel free to call the shelter or email us with any additional questions or comments.

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BEHAVIOR ISSUE: 
Digging

There are many good reasons why dogs dig. The most common reason is simply that it is fun! When it is warm outdoors, many dogs will dig to create a cool area on which to lie. Dogs dig to bury or unbury treasures. Certain breeds are more predisposed to digging – it is hard-wired in their genes and they come equipped with rodent hunting skills. Because digging is often a natural instinct, it is better to re-direct the behavior, than try to suppress it through punishment. 

In an attempt to curb your dog’s digging routine, you may consider other means of stimulation such as various interactive toys – Buster Cubes; Kong Toys filled with treats hidden in several locations; Long knotted rag bones; Etc. 

Another alternative would be to allow your dog to perform this “natural” behavior but to control where it occurs. You can create a ‘Digging Pit’ -- an area away from the main yard, and with a different surface than the rest of the yard. Bring your dog to this area and within his view, bury a toy or bone in a very shallow area, or even sticking out a little bit. If your dog seems reluctant to dig because he may have been reprimanded in the past for that behavior, YOU start digging so he may observe it. Add a cue word such as ‘Dig Pit’ or ‘Pit’ to associate that word with that behavior and location. 

When you are in the yard with your dog at any time and see him sniffing or preparing to dig in a ‘No Dig Zone’, immediately disrupt the activity and then follow it with a command of ‘Dig Pit’ or ‘Pit’ (whatever cue word you have assigned), and if necessary, bring your dog to that area. You can provide further incentive to dig in that area by periodically ‘planting’ treats in the Dig Pit. Be sure to give positive reinforcement whenever your dog gets it right! 

If you offer your dog an approved ‘Dig Zone’ rather than attempt to stifle the natural desire altogether, you will probably have a happier dog and a yard without holes!  Dogs learn more effectively when you work with their motivations instead of relying on punishment.

Please feel free to call the shelter or email us with any additional questions or comments.

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BEHAVIOR ISSUE: 
Dinner Table Begging

A dog’s keen sense of smell and desire for ‘people food’ makes hanging around the dinner table an understandable but annoying behavior. Training your dog to go to a designated spot during the family’s dinner hour is also referred to as “Place Command”. 

During dinner time, locate one place in or near the room where you will be eating, and make that your dog’s “place”. Do not allow him to come to the table while you are eating, but instead take him to that area designated for him and use the word “place”. 

NEVER feed your dog from the dinner table and try not to use his name or interact with him during that time. When it is acceptable for your dog to be near you at the table, call him to you. When he is released from his “place”, make it a special event and reward your dog for having remained there for that period of time. This exercise will take some patience and commitment on you and your family’s part, however, once the dog realizes that rewards only come from ‘waiting’ in his ‘place’, and NOT from hanging around the table, your hard work will be worth it. 

As with anything that you want your dog to accept, do not attach negativity to his “place”. Do not use it as a punishment or somehow relate to him that he goes to his place when he has done something wrong. 

Obviously, it is imperative that everyone who interacts with your dog is consistent with the commands and behavior modification techniques. If one person allows your dog to come to the table, interacts with the dog, or worse, feeds him from the table during the training period, the exercise will be of no value and will produce much confusion for your dog.  

Bone Apetit!

Please feel free to call the shelter or email us with any additional questions or comments.

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BEHAVIOR ISSUE: 
Jumping Up

It is a natural canine behavior to jump up in order to get attention. It is a behavior, however, that we should not allow and should be discouraged from happening at all times. A dog that jumps up is not only annoying, but can be somewhat dangerous to the unsuspecting ‘victim’. Allowing your dog to jump up in play, will only confuse him, and it is unfair to ‘reward’ him for jumping up during play, and ‘discipline’ him for jumping up at other times you consider inappropriate.  

We must take the time to ‘teach’ our dogs the correct way to greet people. There are several effective techniques you can use to stop a dog from jumping up. It is important to note that in the past, inappropriate methods have been commonly taught and used to discourage jumping up behaviors. The following techniques should NEVER be used: 

NEVER attempt to knee a dog in its chest. This is a very dangerous technique, and the fact that it has been used for many years does not make it any less dangerous for the dog. A misplaced knee at an inappropriate time could cause injury to the dog’s sternum, tracheal area, or head area. The many reported cases of injuries to dogs has prompted the progressive canine training community to advocate humane and effective alternative techniques. 

NEVER step on the back paws while the dog is up on you OR squeeze the front paws until the dog pulls away. This practice can produce a counter productive result. Like children, dogs seek attention, and will often accept both positive and negative forms of reward. 

Begin to introduce your dog to a behavior modification technique known as “Nothing In Life Is Free”. This concept is practiced by requiring your dog to say, “Please” whenever he solicits any form of attention from you or when you reward him in any way (ie. treats, affection, play, food, etc.). Your dog says, “Please”, by simply sitting by you, then you reinforce that behavior. At the time of reward, be careful not inadvertently reinforce the wrong behavior. If your dog is in a sit position, then jumps up to receive the reward, the “Jump” will be the behavior rewarded and therefore, reinforce the ‘wrong’ thing. Practice the three “R”s: 

1. Request:       Sit Stay

2. Response:     Dog Sits

3. Reward:         Treat and/or Praise 

Through the use of the above technique, your dog should begin to modify the “Jumping Up” behavior to a “Sit” behavior. 

When your dog does jump up, simply turn your body, thereby allowing the paws to fall to the floor. Simultaneously say, “OFF” (The command “Down” should be reserved for a completely different response). Try not to touch (push away with your hands) your dog when he does jump up. This could reinforce what he wanted all along, which is your attention and touch. When your dog does have all four paws on the floor, request a “sit”. Once he is sitting, immediately but calmly reward him with praise and / or treats. In this way, your dog will learn that the real reward comes when he presents a “sit” instead of a “jump”. Have all family members and even visitors practice this reward system. Within a short period of time, you will see amazing results.  

When guests come to visit, you should not have to banish your pet to the back yard or behind closed doors! Taking the time to practice consistent, humane training techniques with your dog will not only communicate your expectations and house rules, but it should also be a fun activity and bonding experience for human and canine family members alike.  

Please feel free to call the shelter or email us with any additional questions or comments.

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